The hidden beauty of Liechtenstein

When we learned the individual countries of the world in a geography class in primary school, near Liechtenstein and the Principality of Liechtenstein, respectively, only the capital Vaduz and the castle on a rocky plateau above the town of the same name, which is the official residence of the Liechtenstein princely family, were mentioned. This is how I remembered this small state, which is only 160 km2 in size, the 4th smallest in Europe. But this peculiar country hides much more than what is taught in schools. It is the only country that lies in the Alps in its entirety, and I was convinced of that firsthand a few months ago. To this day, even in the memory of this beautiful country, the heart beats. But now let's visit a small but very rich country, where luxury and modesty meet at the same time, a country full of cultivated fields, small farms, friendly people, charming mountain villages and breathtaking landscapes with views of the alpine giants. Physical condition The first awakening at the Mittagspitze campsite in Triesen is marked by thick fog and a pink Ibalgin pill. I don't know if it's caused by the strain of time spent in the mountains of Switzerland last week, or by heavy rain, I set up a tent last night. Thanks to that, although I don't like it, I change my plans, but not fundamentally. Despite the back pain, I'm packing my backpack into the mountains. But before I get to the car, about 200 meters, I know that I will not look at the mountains today. So we will spend the morning in the capital Vaduz, visit a few shops, in the information center I will spend a lot of Swiss francs for souvenirs and postcards. Then, together with my four-legged partner Pedro, we head to the castle, which rises above the city. Walking uphill causes me considerable problems. Fortunately, Pedro helps me a lot. The fog still clings to the tops of the hills, but I can't. After a few hours spent in Vaduz, we get in the car, turn the key and leave for Malbun – a mountain village situated at an altitude of 1,600 meters above sea level, which is a starting point for hiking. The fog thickens along the way, after passing through the tunnel behind the village of Steg you can't see the crocodile. The locals say that this tunnel is crucial for the weather. If there is sunshine behind the tunnel, it will be beautiful in the mountains, if the fog and clouds still persist, the same weather can be expected upstairs. Which is our case this time. The only thing that reassures me at this point is the knowledge that I can never go to the mountains in such physical condition. In the parking lot in Malbun, we turn around and go back to the camp. I definitely do not want to accept that we will not go to the local mountains. Wish and will be wished to you So the time begins for the intensive broadcasting of supplications and wishes that the mountains would let us in at least the next day. That morning, however, it looks the same as the previous day, with the difference that at least the back has eased. I look to the left, to the right, up to the hills, then to Pedro, and declare, „Let's go, let's try it.“ Soon we're on our familiar road to Malbun, where we cross 1,425 altitude meters at a distance of 13 km. In Triesenberg, however, a surprise awaits us in the form of the disappearing fog and hints of blue sky. However, the climb of 25% results in us slowly rising above the inverse clouds with each turn. We go through the tunnel and I am tense like a guitar string, I envy Pedro that he does not have to experience such states, My pleas have been heard – behind the tunnel we are greeted by an azure sky and I quickly put on sunglasses. Now I am sure that today will be full of sun, happiness and unforgettable experiences. Thank you aloud a few times and we humbly go to the mountains. Alice in Wonderland To save time and energy, I buy a ticket for an open, chairlift for CHF 9.80, which is really one of the first unforgettable experiences with Pedro's hunting instincts and birds flying around us accompanied by the whistling of marmots below us. After a few jumps, whether up or down and trying to catch something alive, I deny myself in the cable car so much that I later have a problem getting off it at the final station, which is located at 1,900 m. The first glances I come across are breathtaking and I immediately feel like Alice in Wonderland. While the surrounding valleys are bathed in gray mist, we stand under an azure sky, me in a short T-shirt, shorts and perfectly lubricated with sunscreen. This day is a huge reward for me, which I sincerely appreciate. This is the first time I have been lucky enough to experience an inversion in the Alps. Nevertheless, the pain in my back tears me out of this euphoria. Although I don't like it, I reach into the first aid kit for another Ibalgin pill. But my determination to conquer the panoramic Fürstin-Gina-Weg circuit will not change that. We are slowly moving away from the top station of the cable car, I enjoy every step, I perceive every breath and every view into the distance of beautiful views of the peaks of the mountains of Liechtenstein, Switzerland and Austria is etched in my memory. An exposed section awaits us from the Sareiserjoch signpost, which, as will be shown later, is not the only one on the way. The terrain here is challenging, so every time I want to look around the region, I prefer to stop. Even so, sometimes I lose my balance if I trip over a stone. A narrow, rocky path leads us to the ascent to Augstenberg, where we have a well-deserved rest and something to eat. The 360 ° views from this, the highest hill on Fürstin-Gina-Weg, are wonderful. Liechtenstein is digging deep under my skin. After an hour spent at the top, we continue and after less than 400 meters we come across the border stone Austria-Liechtenstein. Along the way we meet several more, then we turn to the northwest and move away from the border. Do not rejoice prematurely Our next destination is the Pfälzerhütte hut in the Naaftal valley on the Austrian border. Before we get to it, a very difficult section awaits us, which only confirms the difficult terrain in the Liechtenstein mountains. We descend a 200-meter rocky section secured by steel ropes and iron stupas, which is quite challenging, especially for Pedro. I trust him, I leave him space so that he can invent and solve everything. We manage everything very well, I give Pedro a huge compliment, a treat and I'm a little more proud of him again. I order non-alcoholic beer at the cottage and soak up the atmosphere of the local mountains. We spend more than 2 hours here, which seems like a few minutes to me. There are cows in Liechtenstein as well – unfortunately we still have a way back, so we get up and descend along a gravel path to the Gritsch Alm hut, where we have a big decision to make. The road splits. After considering the pros and cons, our steps turn right, which means somehow to go through 3 herds of cows and less than 200 altitude meters up. The sun begins to slowly set behind the green peaks of the mountains and creates a unique atmosphere. There is still fog in the valleys below us. But it will not take long, and we will find ourselves under the so-called shelf. I know how dangerous it is to approach a herd of cows with a dog, so I'm thinking of a way to get around them. One thing is clear – a very large arch. I wonder whether to go left under the hill or right on the hill. I choose variant „a“, so accompanied by the rattling bells of dozens of cows, we wade through tall grass, in which I step on the cow shit at every step. After half an hour, we safely connect to the beaten path with tourist signs. On the horizon of the last hill, I say goodbye to the mountains with the words, „See you soon.“ The imaginary door closes. I turn a few more times, but I can no longer see the mountains. With Silberhorn behind us, we meet down a winding path down to Malbun. The fog begins to penetrate the forest and creates an amazing spectacle. I feel as if the mountains are telling us with this signal: „Your time is up.“ They closed the door behind us just as they opened it for us in the morning – they let us in only as visitors. The character of the landscape The character of the Liechtenstein mountains is completely different from all that I have seen so far. With a backpack on my back, I walked through the mountains in Austria, Slovenia, Norway, Slovakia, Montenegro, Croatia, Poland, in Great Britain, cross-country Snowdonia National Park, in our country in the Czech Republic climbed a hill and now Switzerland. But something was found in Liechtenstein that enhanced my experience of visiting this country even more. Something that has surpassed even the snowy slopes and mountain peaks of the Austrian Alps in the last 3 years. The mountains here have a mysterious face, their unfetteredness and ferocity is noticeable at every step. Peace and quiet are mixed with the screams of marmots and the singing of the feathered inhabitants of the mountains. High rocky peaks create a charming backdrop, where the sun's rays form magnificent works. And all you have to do is stop, take a deep breath and feel the energy that pulsates all around us.

Liechtenstein under the hood