Slovenia

Article Triglav

Ascent to the highest mountain in Slovenia

Ladislav Kula
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Triglav
Inserted: 17.08.2018
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Description of the way from Aljažev Dom via Prague to the top and back via Tominšek path (ferrata)

Route description

We start the journey from the parking lot under Aljažev dom slightly after seven in the morning. a wide path leads us around the cottage, to the monument to the fallen guerrillas in the shape of a climbing bracket. Here are our ways of sharing an 8-member group. Five friends continue through Tominšek's ferrata, the information is that there is still snow and ice and that cats will be useful. Not everyone has them, so my friend and I are making our way through Prague, which should be fine. We climb it through the valley when I find out that along the way we are already climbing to the Luknja saddle and we are already under the north wall of Triglav. I look better at the map and really, the road to Prague turns left as soon as the fork in the Luknja saddle begins to rise. My heart is warmed by the feeling that all the groups we overtook are following the same route as us, and they also want to go through Prague. After a small meeting, everyone turns. Across the snow field, we shorten the way to the sign in the direction of Prague. Immediately begins the light climbing secured by iron rods for attachment, it climbs beautifully. As soon as we ascend a few hundred meters, the road turns left again to traverse the rock above us in the ascent and leads us higher and higher in asymmetrical serpentines. There is no place to get lost here, in some places there is a path secured by a chain or the already mentioned iron pins. This is how we continue to reach the place after which the route is named, Prague. It is about 8 m high vertical rock, into which the stairs are carved and secured on both sides with a steel rope and pins. Probably the airiest place on the route, but with a certain step and hold, nothing an ordinary tourist could do. This is followed by zigzagging in a pile of rubble between the threshold rocks, before the view to the saddle and the signpost opens for us. We are still making our way through the incredible rubble, where hiking poles help me a lot. Even before the crossroads under the rock in the rubble, Tominšek's road connects. We are already looking for friends who are waiting for us at the crossroads. Another division awaits us, a friend who went with us through Prague and others who went through Tominška's way are very tired and are heading to Valentin Stanič's cottage, from where they want to go a lighter section to the Begunjski litter. The rest of the party continue at a leisurely pace to the cottage on Kredarica, also known as the Triglav House. In a tangle of rubble, rocks and depressions, along the former glacier, we are led by a red line marking indicating the correct direction of the march. Under the cottage on Kredarica there is still a secured path with a light ferrata. Surprised at how many people are going to go up that day, we snack quickly, pack our things on top of each other, and almost trot off to the wall where the ferrata boarding is. Unfortunately, a group of about 15 people is ahead of us, most of whom seem to see the ferrata for the first time. The boarding is very slow, in some places we wait up to 10 minutes before those who were already upstairs descend, so that those who want to get there can go up very slowly. The ascent is steep, but very well secured, and if the rock is smooth, there are carved steps or stairs. The only time I don't want to be here is in the rain, when everything has to slide. This is how we get to Malý Triglav, from where a beautiful ridge leads below the top of Triglav. There are also beautiful airy passages, but the ubiquitous steel rope adds security to the step. The last climb on a light ferrata and we're all upstairs. a cloud surrounds us from the left, but the other side to the northeast welcomes us with views, all the way to the Austrian Hohe Tauern. There are plenty of people on top, but you can still find a nice place to sit. Down to our (un) happiness, we have before us as capable a group of people as when we climbed out. Worse, they do not want to let us go in places where there is enough space to free up the route, even on request. The group is tearing at the double again, and at this pace we descend to the end of the ferrata. We come to the cottage in Kredarica, we enjoy a beautiful day, I replenish fluids, unfortunately 3l of water was not enough for me and at 15:00 I have to buy 1l of extra water for 4.80eur. Although it's beautiful here, time tells us to retreat and we go down to the crossroads, where we learn over the phone that the boys are already down on the way to Aljažev dom and that the ferrata via Tominška is already well underway, good. We don't want to go back through Prague, mainly because of the places with a steep slope and rubble on the way. We choose a safer rocky path through the ferrata (we all have equipment on the ferrata). The boys assure us along the way that it's cool and that we have nothing to worry about, even though the evaluation of Tominšek's trip is said to be C in some places. This is confirmed, but again, with a certain step and holding on to the rope, there is nothing there are really airy places, so it's more moral than physics, which is also needed here. Surprisingly, the most difficult sections are not the secured ones, but the ones where the protection would be useful, see places with a steep slope and rubble on a rock. In the end, we manage everything without any problems. Another difficult test for the feet is the descent in the forest, when the path is reinforced by stairs, which, as entered, probably never end. It is getting dark when we come to the guerrilla monument, where we congratulate us on the performance and splendor that day. Friends are already waiting for us with the constant flashing of lightning in the cottage, one Laško will whistle like nothing and we need to get up to walk dryly to the cars.

Aljažev dom

the sun will reach the valley until the morning

Aljažev dom
Author: Ladislav Kula © gigaplaces.com
Drudgery
Author: Ladislav Kula © gigaplaces.com

Drudgery

here we work to find out we have to go back. The turn to Prag is somewhere that ends the snow field below :-D

Flora

flowers were like in the garden

Flora
Author: Ladislav Kula © gigaplaces.com
Branch
Author: Ladislav Kula © gigaplaces.com

Branch

So there, at the large stone in the grove, there is a turn to the far left to Prague, everything else leads to the Luknja saddle.

Outlooks

in the foreground the peak Stenar in the back the last tower the second highest mountain Škrlatica 2740m

Outlooks
Author: Ladislav Kula © gigaplaces.com

Prague

view from the top on Prague

Prague
Author: Ladislav Kula © gigaplaces.com

Passages

sometimes there was no need for adrenaline :-)

Passages
Author: Ladislav Kula © gigaplaces.com

Triglav

view of the triglav from the saddle below the Begunjski litter

Triglav
Author: Ladislav Kula © gigaplaces.com

Ibex

even young ibex came to see us

Ibex
Author: Ladislav Kula © gigaplaces.com

Triglav

view of Triglav from the house on Kredarica

Triglav
Author: Ladislav Kula © gigaplaces.com
Ferrata
Author: Ladislav Kula © gigaplaces.com

Ferrata

on the way to Malý Triglav

Triglav peak
Author: Ladislav Kula © gigaplaces.com

Triglav peak

final ridge and climb to Triglav

Under the top

even in the rocks and at such a height it just bloomed

Under the top
Author: Ladislav Kula © gigaplaces.com

Triglav peak

there were not a lot of people on top and the views :-)

Triglav peak
Author: Ladislav Kula © gigaplaces.com
Descent
Author: Ladislav Kula © gigaplaces.com

Descent

setup was as exciting as the output, but much faster

Tominškova cesta

initially up and down

Tominškova cesta
Author: Ladislav Kula © gigaplaces.com

Section

one of those sections where we would welcome a ferrata, but it was an experience

Section
Author: Ladislav Kula © gigaplaces.com
Tominškova cesta
Author: Ladislav Kula © gigaplaces.com

Tominškova cesta

here the rope was nice :-)

Last section

the last section of a real ferrata, but also really airy :-)

Last section
Author: Ladislav Kula © gigaplaces.com
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Ladislav Kula
17.08.2018 10:58
fine