Exploring the Forbidden Kingdom
It is usual to visit Nepal in autumn (October) or spring (April). But where go during the monsoon season in the summer months? The ideal is the trek around the Lower and Upper Mustang to the Forbidden Kingdom hidden from the monsoon rainfall by the monsoon peak of Annapurnas ridge. After completion of the necessary formalities in Kathmandu await you the transfer by bus or plane to Pokhara. And then up to Jomsom, where the trek begins…
Morning view from Pokhara
It is the monsoon season, but we wake up to a beautiful morning. From the roof of our small hotel are the Himalayan giants at our fingertips. We are welcomed by Fish tail – Machhapuchhre and Annapurnas. We want to get to the starting point for wandering around Mustang – Jomsom quickly by the plane.
Flight to Jomsom
Although it is the monsoon season, we are lucky – the first morning flight from Pokhara to Jomsomu is dispatched. We admire magnificent views of Dhaulagiri during the 20 minute flight.
Nilgiri
After checking in luggage and a short rest (Jomsom is 2 750 m above sea level) we set off towards Mustang. We are accompanied with the top of Nilgiri bathed in the morning sun.
Wreckage
From time to time, there are airline accidents in Nepal. Morning flights to Jomsom usually land in the arrival direction, i.e. from south to north. During the morning often rises south gusty wind. Aircrafts must then rotate in a relatively narrow space before landing. And this was also the case of the wreckage, which we have seen.
Jomsom
We leave Jomsom behind our back and slowly ascend above the river Kali Gandaki. It's a comfortable wide path along which run also jeeps. It is sometimes worth to look back – the reward is the view on brightly white peak of Dhaulagiri.
Kali Gandaki
This river flows within its broad river bed, where it wants. Sometimes it is possible to go along its shore, but we are here in August and it is safer to use the comfortable roadway. Locals mine building stone from the riverbed.
Fields near Kagbeni
The today’s destination is village of Kagbeni. Those making the trek around Annapurnas descend here from Muktinath and also the path to Dolpa trek turns here.
Kagbeni - in the monastery
Buddhist monasteries have a magical atmosphere.
Kagbeni - near the monastery
The atmosphere in the monastery and outside is relaxed…
Kagbeni
Local narrow streets are a strange mix of old and new. I feel that the new will still increase. Is it good or bad? We come to the enterprise which has on the door: Yac Donald's.
Surroundings of Kagbeni
I can recommend exploring the surrounding as a form of acclimatization relax. Low sun makes in the evening the landscape surrounding Kagbeni even more beautiful.
Nilgiri
Afternoon clouds dissolve and Nilgiri peak appears again in the sunset, but from a slightly different perspective than in Jomsom.
Kagbeni
The next morning we go to the edge of Kagbeni to go through the checkpoint. You must pay permit to Mustang of 500 USD for 10 days (extra day / 50 USD extra – as of 2012). Fortunately, we have a permit already arranged and paid from Kathmandu, so the procedure for 4 foreigners only takes about 15 minutes. And we have a great guide (in Mustang it is a duty). Then we ascent over Kagbeni towards today's experiences.
Kali Gandaki
We proceed above the left bank. The path waves constantly up and down and offer new views on land situated in the rain shadow. It is ideal destination outside the Nepalese tourist season.
Path
Although it may not seem so, the path is still very comfortable and wide.
Chhusang
Destination for the next trek day. Again, we curiously explore the village and its surroundings. We are surrounded by interesting rock formations.
In the monastery
Now the ceremony takes place. Tomorrow we will ascent to Upper Mustang.