Or nine thousand in one day
In the vicinity of Kvilda there are a number of hills, the tops of which attract to conquer. We will overcome nine of them within the route described below. There is no tourist marked path to any of them and no path at all to some of them. They may not be so attractive to tourists at first glance, but lovers of the Šumava forests will certainly enjoy themselves. The route is about 26 km long and takes 8–9 hours (unless you get lost along the way).
The condition for successful completion of the entire route is perfect orientation in wooded terrain (or at least a sufficiently charged mobile phone with GPS). The route starts and ends at Kvilda. And it's also the only place along the entire route where you can refresh or replenish supplies. From the information center, we follow the yellow marked hiking trail towards Filipova huť, but immediately after less than a kilometer we turn right and after a short climb we reach the first peak, Lapka (1,171 m above sea level). There are several smaller rocks, but there is no view from here. However, lovers of distant views do not have to be sad, they will enjoy a lot of them during the trip.
The first of them can enjoy the clearing under the Grouse. From Lapka we continue west towards the intersection of the road from Kvilda to Filipova Huť and the forest Tetřeví cesta. We connect to the Grouse Road, but soon leave it again, turning right onto a little-used and overgrown path in summer. However, we will soon leave this path as well and slowly ascend to the south to the upper edge of the slowly overgrown glade below Tetřev. Here we have a wide view of the surrounding, relatively undulating landscape. The most significant, and it can be said that the only significant peak is actually Antýgl.
It is only a short walk to today's second peak, Tetřev (1,260 m above sea level). As with Lapka, there is no road to Grouse, sometimes it is necessary to climb (or bypass) a fallen tree or break through young trees or tall blueberries. The peak is again formed by several rocks, this time slightly larger than on Lapka, but don't expect a great view here at the moment.
Remains of a stone wall
From the top we continue approximately southwest. With a little luck, we will come across the preserved remains of the old border wall, which marked the border between the Prášilský and Zdíkovský estates and which will be a reliable guide to the next landmark.
And that is the boundary stone, in fact rather a small rock, which was used as part of the boundary wall.
From the boundary stone, we head west or southwest until we come to the Blind Road, leading towards Čertův vrch (1,244 m above sea level). But not to the very top. Finding the highest point is not easy at all. More interesting than the peak, however, are the rocks located about 300 meters south of the peak. Even this place is not easy to find, access to them resembles an obstacle course. The ground is full of old dry trunks scattered in various ways, and young trees grow between them. If you do not give up, you will be rewarded for the effort.
View of Montenegro
From some places there is a nice view, including the main destination of this tour – Montenegro.
The descent from the viewpoint to the south is somewhat steep, increased caution is certainly in place, because with a sprained ankle it would not continue very comfortably. Fortunately, this is only a short section. We should soon get to the path leading along the border of the 1st zone of the Černohorský močál National Park. At the beginning, the road is quite overgrown, in some places it is difficult to know where it actually leads, but later it will widen. We come to a crossroads with a path called Za jezírkem. After it, we turn right, but after a few hundred meters we should leave it, because it leads through the 1st zone, where entry is forbidden.
Somehow we get to the path above the next 1st zone – Above the Vltava road. Sometimes it is necessary to climb or climb a fallen tree, but otherwise it is a comfortable path, leading approximately along the contour. The view of the surroundings soon begins to open up. Even here years ago, a bark beetle roamed and many dry trees still stick to the sky. Young trees are already growing among them, some artificially planted, some have grown naturally. Maybe in a few decades there will be a dense forest again as in the past. And maybe it will be a little more natural, closer to nature than the previous one. Nevertheless, the question arises as to whether years ago something could not and should not have been done…
Climb to the top
At the first significant turn to the right, we start to ascend. The road is obviously not very used, sometimes we can have a little doubt if we are still going along the road at all. It is overgrown with grass and even here it is necessary to overcome the fallen trees, but there is nowhere to get lost. Just go straight up. Don't forget to turn around from time to time and enjoy the wide view (it won't be too big at the top).
After about 1 kilometer we reach the Excavated Road. Here we turn left and after a while we are at the top of Montenegro. At today's fourth and also the highest peak (1,315 m above sea level). The triangulation rod is hidden among the trees not far from the road, but indeed the highest point is several tens of meters to the north.
Above the source of the Vltava
Following the Dug Road, we continue further east and slowly descend. At the next crossroads, turn right onto the Montenegrin road. This road is also quite overgrown with grass in summer and offers nice views of other destinations on today's route. After about 600 meters, the footpath turns into a gravel road and after another 200 meters we walk to a wooden viewing platform and join the red sign. And while all the way from Kvilda to this place there was a pretty good chance that you wouldn't meet anyone, now it will change significantly.
Under the Guard
The next three kilometers lead along a marked hiking trail and bike path, and so the number of tourists and cyclists will increase rapidly. From the U pramene Vltavy crossroads, you can make a short detour to the source of our longest river and then return again and continue along the red road to the Pod Stráž crossroads, where we will leave the marked path and be alone again. At the crossroads, turn left onto Štruncova cesta and from there we ascend to a shallow saddle between Stráž and Holý vrch. In some places, there are nice views of the opposite Montenegro.
We first turn left in the saddle and after a few hundred meters we reach the fifth peak – Holý vrch (1,294 m above sea level). Despite its name, it is not completely plain at the moment. One might say that there is nothing interesting at this top altogether. But he's here, and that alone may be a reason to beat him. Especially when you're walking around.
We return to the saddle the same way and soon we find ourselves at the sixth peak – Stráž (1,308 m above sea level). Due to the damaged forest on the eastern slopes, there is a nice view from the east to Temelín.
Another overgrown road descends to the southeast, which will lead us back to the red mark. However, we will quickly leave here and continue along the Guard Road to the Table Ridge. The table ridge consists of three peaks, of which the first and lowest probably do not even have a name, but there are several interesting rocks on it. The second peak already has a name – Table Mountain (1,254 m above sea level).
On the way, we reach the third peak of the Table Ridge, Vysoký stolec (1,251 m above sea level). It is the only one that offers a pretty nice view, but again only thanks to a piece of damaged forest. However, a lot of young trees are already growing here and it will soon be out of sight.
The last, ninth and lowest peak is Stanová hora (1,159 m above sea level), which we reach partly using local roads, partly open terrain, which is quite waterlogged in some places. The view is limited from here.
Return to Kvilda
All that remains is to get back to Kvilda in some way. There are more possibilities, but most of them end with a connection to Bučinská cesta, which will lead us to Kvilda. On your return, you may come across a long terrain notch, which may have once been a navigation channel (and maybe not …).
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